Inspiration for the Brown Wool Dress

When I was researching 1880's fashions for the brown wool dress, I first tried to look at as many photos from the period as I could. Second I looked at extant pieces, and third I browsed fashion plates. I tried to go for actual photos to get the real "look" of an outfit, before I started cutting and sewing.

c. 1880's carte de visite from my collection

I like her. She looks friendly!

I saved loads of pictures of CDV's and cabinet cards from eBay and etsy, since obviously, it wasn't possible to buy all of them. I was especially inspired by the above picture, so I was thrilled when it was still for sale after I finished the dress.

I bought it and it just came in the mail yesterday! Yay! 

This picture really inspired the pleating on the front of my bodice. It also steered me away from a bonnet and toward a tall hat. Someone referred to this style as a "flower pot" hat. It really does look like a pot, turned upside down! 

I kept going back to this picture as I sewed. I love how the bodice is pulling a bit and she's a little wrinkly all over. It reminded me that I was making real clothes, not a costume, perpetually steamed, pressed and flawless on a mannequin.

Another picture I fell in love with is the photograph of Louise, Princess Royal (#157) in Alison Gernsheim's book, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, A Photographic Survey. In the book, it's a full length shot of the same outfit, pictured below. Great book.

Louise, Princess Royal.
Wikimedia Commons.

Actually, online I found a scan of the full length photo. Click here for it. The size of her bustle is interesting, considering I didn't see too many prominent bustles in the CDV's and cabinet cards I studied. Whereas, they were ALL over the fashion plates of the era. Interesting to see what everyday ladies wore. Perhaps Princess Louise was quite fashionable, being a royal and all... Thoughts?

Frances Folsom Cleveland's Gown

One of my favorite museums to visit is the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History in Washington DC. The first time I went I was a little kid, and you could not get me out of the first ladies' exhibit for anything!

Why, you ask?

Gowns.

Lots of gowns. Two hundred years of gowns.

Though there is only a small selection of gowns and accessories out at any given time, apparently the museum has thousands of artifacts relating to the first ladies. They have Martha Washington's dress, Abigale Adams' shoes, Mary Todd Lincoln's lorngettes (do you think she took them to the theater that night?...) and lots of other artifacts from Martha to today. And since Helen Taft, it has been tradition for each first lady to give her inaugural dress to the exhibit.

But today I'm going to be highlighting Frances Folsom Cleveland's wedding dress.

Frances Folsom Cleveland's dress, c. 1886.

I totally love this dress. The gown is of ivory satin, with a sheer over trim at the bust. It has a grand train and some lovely asymmetrical pleats and gathers on the skirt. 

The day after the wedding, the Washington Post reported, "The bride wore an enchanting white dress of ivory satin, simply garnished on the high corsage with India muslin crossed in Grecian folds and carried in exquisite falls of simplicity over the petticoat. The orange blossom garniture, commencing upon the veil in a superb coronet, is continued throughout the costume with artistic skill. She carried no flowers and wore no jewelry except an engagement ring, containing a sapphire and two diamonds."

Frances Cleveland wearing the dress,
ornamented with garlands of
Orange Flower blossoms.

Frances married President Cleveland in June of 1886, in the White House's Blue Room, at the age of 21. She is the youngest first lady so far, and their marriage had the biggest age gap of all the Presidents and first ladies, with a 27 year difference. The Clevelands are the only couple to be married in the white house and to have a baby born in the White House, as well. 

A stereograph of the Blue Room, taken during the Grant years.

Apparently Frances was quite fashionable for the day and was so well liked, she even received fan mail!

The Clevelands' wedding in the Blue Room.
Image via Wikimedia Commons

Esther Cleveland is the only baby to be born
 in the White House. She was born on
September 9th, 1893.
The White House Archives

Unfortunately, when I went to see this exhibit again last year, the dress wasn't on display. However, I remember, very vividly, from years past, that the dress had a little dime sized, light brown, splattery stain on the lap. I always thought this was the coolest thing because it made it so real and I could really picture her wearing it, and oops! Spilling a a little soup, or perhaps wine, in her lap. 

Now, this didn't necessarily happen at the wedding, as the dress was altered after, to an evening gown for two state events later that same June, and once more for a formal portrait on the 29th of June, 1886.

The Smithsonian also has another dress of hers and a bonnet on display on their website. 

From the First Ladies' Fashions exhibit,
"Frances Cleveland wore this silk evening gown
with fur-edged hem and black-satin-and-jet trim during
her husband’s second administration. It was made
by Baltimore dressmaker Lottie Barton."

Cleveland's cream velvet bonnet.

And because it's almost Christmas... The Cleveland family's Christmas tree!

The Cleveland's Christmas tree, c. 1895,
displayed in the Family Room and Library,
 now the Yellow Oval Room.
The White House Historical Association

Have a happy day all!

Eye Candy on a Wednesday Morning

Or, day dreaming about my sewing wish list...

American, mid 1880's.
 The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

A frilly, satiny, gorgeous corset has been on my wish list for a while now. 

So far, my only Victorian corset (that fits) is a basic, white coutil, 1860's version. I've never been super into the 19th century, but after the last few outfits I've researched, made and worn, I've developed more of an appreciation for that long stretch years, and fashions, spanning Queen Victoria's reign. 

Honestly, I think I've been a little daunted by the complexity of garments and the frequent changing of shapes and silhouettes, during the Victorian years. The 18th century is so safe to me! I'm so comfortable there. But ooo I like a challenge. And change.

In the 21st century, I dress really quite neutral. A lot of black, a lot of grey, not a lot of frill. Some of this spills over into my costuming. As in, I get more excited about the plain brown wool than the gorgeous pink moire that's been hibernating up in my stash for the past two years.

But I do day dream about frilly... 

Right now, I'm salivating over the idea of a fabulous 1880's corset to go with my brown wool gown I am so loving right now. 

I am especially loving this cream satin corset from the Met. And see what I mean, monochrome off white is my fabulous! But really, I love this one! Click the link and check it out with the zoom feature. Drool.

I am in love with the bust cording! I think I have some satin ribbon I
can use for the bow.

Next month I'm headed back to England.
I'm planning on visiting my favorite lace seller and hunting down some
nice 19th century lace edging and beading for the top.

I'll have to find some nice, matching perle for the flossing.

So far, I have a pattern to start with. I think it's Truly Victorian. I have a couple yards of ivory silk satin from Pure Silks, as well as some good coutil to flatline the silk to. 

Ivory silk satin from Pure Silks. In person, it looks
much more rich and heavy and has softer looking folds.

I have a busk and boning that's waiting to be cut, and some nice ivory silk satin ribbon for the bow. Next month, when I'm back in London, I'll go visit my favorite little lace stall at Portobello and I hope to score some nice antique lace for the top. Aside from the lace, which is just frosting, I have pretty much everything I need to get started. Once the busyness of Christmas is over, I hope to get started on this. I'm really excited!

I'm especially excited for the challenge of working with a satin weave. I think a lot of testing will have to go into the techniques, like the cording and the exterior boning channels. I've never worked with satin on a project like this. I hope it's not too fiddly.

Have a happy Wednesday all!

A Little Trip to The V&A

For those of us who stayed home this holiday weekend and did not travel, I thought I would suggest a little trip across the sea to one of our (yes, I'm sure anyone who reads this blog loves this place - how could you not!?) favorite places: The Victoria and Albert Museum.

The V&A is one of my very favorite museums for costume research. I haven't yet been to Kyoto, but I'm sure the Kyoto Costume Institute will tie for first if I ever get to go! But back to the V&A. 

Top five reasons why I love it:

1. It always has some kind of great costume exhibit going on.

2. It's in London

3. It has a huge shop

4. The shop has amazing costume books

5. You can take pictures!

Ok. Let's go!

An 1880's Outing

1880's Wool Dress, photos by Lisa Coffey.

Pouf! A new dress!

I haven't posted anything about the progress of this new dress because I had to make it so darn fast. Last month we (as in the civilian ladies of the Southern Nevada Living History Association) decided to do a bustle era outing, which coincided with an SNLHA "timeline" event at the Old Mormon Fort, which is an event where one can portray any era they wish. Very fun.

A different kind of costume...

Rhinestones galore! And a plume up there, too :)

Okay, so, not my grandest costuming moment, but it was still fun!

I originally had big plans for the circus girl costume (costume party at the barn). They involved glittery spray paint and tons of rhinestones and 1930's makeup and hairdo with sparkly head band and perhaps some feathers... 

Well, I was at the civil war reenactment up until an hour before so by the time I ditched the hoop and got to the barn, I was like, eh. I was also up until four the night before at a ghost hunt, EMF's, EVP's and all... But that's a story for another day.

I did the bare minimum and didn't bother with hair because it just went up into a helmet anyway. Pony and I had a good time, though! I think he liked his costume.

Happy Halloween all!

Day Two at Spring Mountain Ranch and a Green Silk Dress

On flat terrain, the dress hangs about an inch
above the ground.

On Saturday I went back to the ranch for a few more hours spent in the 1860's (I also had another costume party to attend the same day!). So far, my thoughts: I love love love the sewing, I very much love the wearing, but wearing out in the foot high grass, stepping over cow mess, roasting in the sun... Not my favorite thing in the world. I guess I'm more of an indoor girl.

But I totally still had fun, don't get me wrong!

So anyway, the most important part: the outfit. I wore a green silk dress with black velveteen trim. I accessorized with the same jewelry as the day before, though I swapped the brown silk belt for black and switched to another whitework collar. I had planned on a pretty cream silk bonnet, but it was quite hot and sunny, so I stayed with the straw hat. Ah, shade. 

I love the buttons! Antique black ball buttons.

A good pic of the buttons, collar, hair and piping.

Pattern shopping!

In other news, thanks to Sandy I have rethought my Burnley and Trowbridge mantua workshop plans this weekend. As bummed as I am to have to cancel, I'd rather just go another time, than chance hours in airports and delays and ick. Though I must admit, the possibility of sewing with no power did sound intriguing. Haha authentic! Ah well, another day. And best of luck to everyone on the east coast. Stay dry and safe, folks!

Next up for November: bustle era! Stay tuned.