A Black Sateen 1880's Corset

What does every good outfit need? Good undies! And while I didn't have time to make 1880's white frillies, I did prioritize time to make a more era appropriate corset. For a long time, all I had for anything Victorian was my not-quite-1860's corset. And oh boy, looking back, the off silhouette really does show. My goal for this corset was a better shape. A rounder, lower bust. Also, better fabric.

The Aid of Art to Represent Nature

National Portrait Gallery, London

We are all familiar with Camille Clifford. Oh, those curves! But wait, here she is again, about ten years later, when curves are out and that slim line is in. Wait, what? Where did those curves go? 

National Portrait Gallery, London

My guess: the padding came out.

I recently made up this Atelier Sylph corset pattern. I made a mock up, which fit relatively well, but didn't actually make any changes to it. It's such a curvy and dramatic silhouette, I wanted to see how it fit out of the box. 

Goldfield Days 2017

Just like last year, Goldfield Days fell the weekend after Costume College. So, again, we had fun road tripping all week and ended up in Goldfield just in time to open our building for the event. We open up the John S. Cook Bank Building as a bar for the day and sell beer and shirts and mugs even have a ghost hunt! With all the proceeds going toward the restoration and upkeep of the 13,000 square foot building. 

A Turn of the Century Foundation Skirt

After going through the evening gown I shared in my last post. I started on a foundation skirt for my own evening gown. A foundation skirt is basically a very engineered petticoat that goes under a gown, once skirts stop routinely being lined, around the turn of the 20th century.

To construct this skirt, I gathered my information from a few different places, since I have never actually seen one in person. Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques, edited by Kristina Harris, is indispensable. It's a copy of Butterick's 1905 manual, Dressmaking, Up to Date. If you don't already have one, get a copy! It explains pretty much everything I did to make this skirt, as well as everything else you might ever need to know about turn of the century sewing. I'll make a note on what pages the info came from throughout the post.

1930's Undies

To go under my beach pyjamas, I needed some era appropriate undies. I chose white crepe de chine, so they would look better under the very obvious facings of the white linen pants. Crepe de chine also has the advantage of sewing easily and it washes well, too. 

These are made up from Mrs. Depew #2023. I am really liking these print at home patterns. So convenient! I like them even more now that I got one of those guillotine paper cutters. Oh my, the cutting of the paper edges goes SO fast now! Highly recommended!

These were done with a mix of machine and hand sewing, so they went together quite fast. The hand sewing was really only needed for the fiddly bits, like the button holes and gusset.

The waistband was faced with self-bias and the hem was just turned up and stitched. I can see these being a lot of fun to make up with a lace hem or embroidery. 

So, after being in the 20's and 30's so many months in a row, I just dove into the giant UFO pile and lined up a selection of things to finish up. Expect to see some 1780's and 1860's coming soon! Back to the really fun stuff!

Have a happy Sunday, all!

HSM #1: 1920's Undies

The Challenge: Firsts and Lasts

Material: Silk crepe de chine, silk satin, silk charmeuse, cotton sateen, elastic and lace.

Pattern: Mrs. Depew #2030 for the Bandeau, Truly Victorian 1913 Corset (heavily modified) for the girdle, and self drafted patterns for the envelope chemise and slip.

Year: 1925-29

Notions: Silk and cotton threads, corset busk, hooks and eyes, buttons

How historically accurate is it? Spot on, to the best of my knowledge.

Hours to complete: A couple weeks.

First worn: Dardanella's Gatsby Ball


Total cost: I'm not sure. Most of the fabric was from my stash. Things I bought specifically for the project were some suspender grips and very small buttons for the envelope chemise's tab.

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I suppose I should start from the inside out. 

The Gatsby Ball

This past weekend I had the good fortune to be able to attend Dardanella's Gatsby Inaugural Ball in Washington DC. But never fear, dear readers, there was nothing political about it! 

Just a lovely, non-partisan, 1920's themed ball held in the beautiful National Portrait Gallery. There was live music, dancing, cocktails and even the chance to tour the museum and see portraits of Presidents past. 

2016 In Review

I can't believe the year is already coming to an end! And what a great year it has been.

It's always fun to look back in the year and review the things I have sewn. It's funny, I felt like I sewed quite a bit, especially this summer, but all in all, not too many outfits were made. Though, I did make loads of undergarments and accessories that went into each ensemble. Then, of course, there are some UFO's leftover in my sewing room and finished things that didn't get worn or photographed...

So here we go.

The year started out with some early Edwardian undies: drawers, chemise, a frilly corset cover, and I reworked my S-bend corset. It was so much fun to work with lace, I went a little overboard.

An Edwardian Robe du Soir for the Coco Gala

All of Costume College was great, and the gala was definitely the icing on the cake. So many gorgeous gowns to drool over!

You know what happens when you're having fun? You don't take enough pictures! Ah well, I was happy to at least get my dress from most angles.

And I really loved both making and wearing the gown I chose. The gown was mostly based off of this 1913 - 1914 gown. I had some serious time constraints, so the fabric had to change, as finding the perfect coral silk was difficult. Also, the silk satin I chose was much too drapey for the more structured skirt on the original, so I used the skirt pattern from Ageless Patterns #1362, which I had on hand. That worked beautifully, and gave me more time to play with the rest of the gown, but more on the construction further down.

UFO's off the pile!

A couple weeks ago I got my limited class list from Costume College, and was lucky enough to get the class I wanted. Woot woot! And then I read, at the bottom of the page, that I needed to come wearing stays, shift and petticoat...

Let me confess, I haven't sewn anything since like February.

Reading that got me all excited, though, and lit a well needed fire under my bum roll.

And what did I have festering in the UFO pile, but some almost done stays and a shift! Perfect! I got cracking and finished them up. And a dress, too! But that's for another post :)

The shift pattern was from At the Sign of the Golden Scissors. Actually, it wasn't a pattern, it was a pre-cut kit, which was supposed to make this a fast project. 

I started it in 2013... Whoops!

It went together really well. The instructions were helpful and I tried to keep to them. I do wish the linen was a little softer, but being the weight that it is, it will be perfect for keeping boobs tidy while trying to drape patterns in public.

The stays were started, I think, about two years ago. I thought my yellow linen stays never fit quite right in the bust. Too small. So I drafted this pattern on top of my old stays. They are blue worsted wool, with reed boning, and edged with leather. I only cheated with the machine on the channels. At the time, as in two years ago, I just didn't have it in me. These pictures were from the final fitting, before I closed them up on the bottom.

I'm sure a theme can be sensed here: I needed new undies so no wardrobe malfunctions mid-class :) Maybe I need a bedgown, too...

My favorite part was cross stitching my initials into the shift. Sometimes it's the little details make the most mundane of projects exciting. 

And, nope, they're not lined. Yet. I'm sure I'll have time soon, but I sacrificed the lining to work on more fun, exciting things :)

Oops! The corset and chemise I forgot to post about...

Woopsie! I was on such a roll in February, and then I forgot to post about it!

Then I found these photos hiding in my computer last night. Time to share!

I redid my Edwardian corset and I think it's such an improvement on fit. I originally made it in a workshop and it never fit correctly. It smashed my hips, was too big in the chest, and didn't give the correct silhouette at all. Now that I let out the hips, the waist can reduce nicely, and so now the bust fits, too. Yay!

It's not terribly impressive lying on a table, so I'll have to put it on soon and take some proper pictures... But I've been so costuming lazy lately. Which might be why I never posted about it...

I had a lot of fun trimming this corset. I stitched some rows of lace and beading together for the bust and added some yummy silk ribbon. The garters were surprisingly easy. I stretched elastic as I fed it through the machine, stitching lace trim to the sides, to add a bit of fluff. The top of the elastic loops around safety pins to attach them to the body of the corset. The ends are fed around garter pieces, with slides to adjust the length. I also flossed it - love details!

Because I was redoing a corset, and not starting from the bringing, the grommets and busk were already in place. I made the lace work around them by slicing though it, turning it under, and stitching the lace around the grommets and busk. 

And then I made a new chemise! With the move, and a lot of my costumes still being in storage, I couldn't find my edwardian chemise I had made just before the move. But that's ok - I made a newer, better one! 

I really had a lot of fun with all the lace and insertion. Now I just need to motivate myself to get working on the outer layers. I'm feeling a little more inspired, though, since the costume college packet came!

HSF #1: Procrastination

I'm quite happy I finally quit procrastinating and got working on my new Edwardian Undies. I first bought the pattern and intended on beginning it two years ago! It's about time I got around to starting them. And finishing them.

Ah, but if I had a nickel for every time I did that...

The Challenge: #1, Procrastination

Material: Cotton Batiste

Pattern: Truly Victorian TVE02

Year: About 1903

Notions: Lace, china buttons, silk ribbon.

How historically accurate is it? The materials are correct, though after starting the project, I questioned using a zig zag stitch on the insertion, as I didn't see instructions for insertion like that in my antique sewing manuals. After looking into it, as far as I can tell, the zig zag stitch was invented in the late 19th century, but was only used in industrial sewing until the late 1940's. But I had gone too far to switch the stitching... Ah well, with each project I learn more to be better next time!

Hours to complete: About a week of sewing in the afternoons.

First worn: Not yet!

Total cost: I didn't count. I had pretty much everything in my stash. Just ordered some extra insertion and ribbon after running out. 

Frilly things ahead!

Yay! I've been so productive this last week! I dove into making new Edwardian undies with full force. 

2015 In Review

Oh, and it started off so strong! Unfortunately, only a few things were actually completed last year, but here they are!

Haha first was a tea cozy. It's very handy!

Then, the only complete outfit of the year: my costume de ball for the Jane Austen Evening, in Pasadena. I made a sleeveless shift, a bodiced petticoat and a gown. I also repaired an antique tiara for the outfit.

Sometimes the sewing gods smile upon you...

With the Jane Austen ball outfit behind me, I thought I would start my next project: a 1905-ish ensemble, in the spirit of the historical building my husband and I purchased last year. I found a period photograph from the town, showing ladies dressed for day, and I've been planning to copy one of the outfits.

As per usual, I thought I'd start from the inside out. I went into the stash, to look for fabric for a petticoat, but I didn't have any. I was about to go to the store, but thought I should check the petticoats I have first, just to see if anything would work.

Major face palm!

At some point last year, I already made the petticoat! How I forgot, I have no idea, but here it is!

The skirt I'm planning is fairly narrow, so I'll have to see if it needs a second petticoat, or if the chemise and drawers will add enough heft under there.

Yay! One down. Now on to the rest of the outfit.

Costume de Bal

I was lucky enough to get tickets again this year for Pasadena's Jane Austen Evening. It really is a lovely event. A nice mix of people. Dancers and costumers and those that do both. I was lucky enough to finally meet some ladies I have only met online, and also see some fantastic costumes. I must say, I think the most gorgeous outfit was an 1820's ensemble. Perfect hair, perfect dress. I wish I had thought to take a picture!

But isn't that just what happens when you're having fun? I totally forget about the camera. I wish I had gotten some better pictures of myself, too, but here is what I have. 

"One man's trash...," they say. Or, why is corset busk in the middle of the desert?

In the middle of nowhere, miles even from the nearest ghost town, guess what I see on the desert floor? A corset busk!

And a button.

Why are these things here? Well, I've mentioned Goldfield before. It was a big deal city in Nevada during the mining boom in the early 1900's. The city was massive, and then it was basically leveled by fires in the 20's. 

Between a major flood in 1913, the fires in the 20's, subsequent rain and water flow, wind and the elements, and general dumping of garbage, during the period, the surrounding desert is scattered with 100 year old trash. And it's fascinating.

Owing to the remoteness of the location and the lack of population, the surrounding desert has been left untouched for a century. Over the years, as it rains, and things that were buried work their way to the surface, it's truly amazing what can be seen. 

And so why were we in Goldfield again? Well, we bought a historic building!!!

My husband and I are so jazzed to have the honor of restoring this gem and contributing to the history of this town, which we have so fallen for.

Below are some early pictures that were given to us by the former owner. It shows the building though some of it's incarnations. It was a bank and pharmacy, with office spaces on the upper floors.  Later it was a restaurant and bar. 

It was actually partially destroyed in a fire, in 1924, which shows in the photo below, and then rebuilt promptly after. In some of the upper rooms, charring from the fire can still be seen when you lift the windows and look within the framing!

We might even be inheriting a ghost! Legend says that Claudia haunts the building, after an untimely death in the 1920's. We shall see!

Can't wait to start this adventure! Happy Thanksgiving, all!

HSF #15: The Great Outdoors

For this challenge I knocked an 18th century habit shirt off my to-do list. Yay!

The Challenge: #15, The Great Outdoors

Fabric: Handkerchief weight linen

Pattern: Kannik's Korner men's shirt 1750-1800, modified for a ladies' shirt, using information from Cunnington's "History of Underclothes."

Year: Later 18th century

Notions: 60/2 linen thread, 16/2 linen thread for buttons, cotton tape for waistband.

How historically accurate is it? As close as possible.

Hours to complete: Took about four days, sewing in the afternoons and evenings.

First worn: Not yet!

Total cost: The linen cost $22/yd, but I'm not sure how much I ended up using. Maybe a yard or so.

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The shirt was very simple, if time consuming, to make. Tiny stitches! The instructions on the Kannick's Korner pattern were very helpful. I also referenced the man's shirt in "Costume Close Up." I will probably add ruffles to the shirt when I decide on what particular habit to make. 

Shirt construction is so interesting! With all the little reinforcements and gussets. Very fun to put together.

I chose thread buttons for the collar so they would be soft under the cravat. Next up, a cravat, I guess.

I thread a tape through a channel on the back hem, putting eyelets in the ends of the channel.

I love a good button hole :)

I'm really jazzed about my sleeve links! I copied Georgian examples with bits from the jewelry section and some "paste" buttons. There's currently some on eBay that inspired me. I don't know, for sure, if ladies wore sleeve links with habit shirts, but I know they wore them on shift's sleeves and I know habit shirts were basically like men's shirts, so I figured why not!

The sleeve links were so easy to make. I'll be keeping an eye out for good buttons from now on. Oh the possibilities!