HSF #4: Embellish - Tucks

The Challenge: #4: Embellish

Fabric: 15+ yards of striped, white on white, sheer cotton for the fashion fabric. The lining used under a yard of pima cotton broadcloth and the hem used a yard or two of plain ol white calico.

Pattern: Truly Victorian TV447. The 1863 Sheer dress (modified).

Year: The pattern says 1863, so I'm thinking give or take a few years.

Notions: I used thin, cotton cord for piping, cotton twill for the hem, cotton thread for everything, little buttons on the inner bodice and reed for boning the darts.

How historically accurate is it? To the best of my knowledge, pretty darn. It is machine sewn, and I shortened the thread length to better represent the small stitches present on extant examples. The dress is based on examples from the era, most notably this dress, which obviously inspired the tucks on the skirt. Check out more examples here. The dress is hand finished. The main, glaring inaccuracy is I used plastic buttons on the inside, since that's what I had (I also used my sewing machine for the button holes and I am so bummed I did that. It was fast, but it doesn't come with the same satisfaction and beauty as hand sewn. Boo pout). Also, the twill used on the hem is probably not the exact same as what was used, but the use and application of it is consistent with originals.

Hours to complete: On and off sewing since January.

First worn: Not yet. Just for fitting. Hopefully soon... like when it warms up...

Total cost: Stash project! So I consider it a freebie. Yay! But the fabric cost like $15 a yard a year or two ago when I originally purchased it.

So, on to the notes and pictures...

A Tea Cup Started It All

The other day, one of my oldest and closest friends, Jose, text me and suggested Downton and tea.

Um, of course. 

Naturally the Titanic tea cups had to come out. I should mention that Jose and I used to sit in fourth grade together and squeal about the movie. I squealed about the dresses and he squealed about more manly things, like turbines and smoke stacks lol. But anyway, Titanic related squealing goes way back for us. When I bought the teacups, he was the first person I texted. 

So, if you give a mouse a cookie, or rather, if you give a costumer a tea cup, she's going to get inspired... The tea cup lead to a whole afternoon of finding Edwardian bits in my closet and roping in Jose for an impromptu photo shoot. Jose just got back from dressing back stage at fashion week, so I felt very privileged. Squeal, again. 

I love using Pinterest to get my thoughts together, so check out my board of Edwardian eye candy that inspired us for the shoot. Lots of Lilly Elsie...

The dress is an eBay find and it has been patiently waiting it's turn to be reintroduced to the world. It's a beautiful dress of ivory silk and lace. It looks early teens to me, for sure. Amazingly, it fits me, and luckily, it is in strong enough condition to try on. Unfortunately, though, it's too fragile to actually wear anywhere.

It's has surprisingly simple construction for an Edwardian gown, with no boning or inner bodice, so I would love to recreate it one day. Scroll on down for a bunch of pictures of the inside.

I wore it with vintage kidskin gloves, my Astoria shoes, some pearls my Grandmother gave me and a gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous fan I picked up on my last trip to England. Underneath, I have some Edwardian era slips and a corset I got a while back from Period Corsets. And I must say, long line Edwardian corsets are not so comfortable. Something about how they constrict the hips. It took some getting used to.

The Historical Sew Fortnightly #3 - Under It All

Ah, I finally got something done for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. Yay! And I finally got something out of the UFO pile. Three somethings, actually.

For this challenge, I finished up my 18th century half boned stays and two petticoats, one linen and the other wool. I originally started making them for a Burnley and Trowbrige workshop I was going to back in November, but Hurricane Sandy foiled my plans.

So, to begin, the stays.

The Challenge: #3, Under It All

Fabric: Worsted wool, different kinds of linen, leather for the binding.

Pattern: J.P. Ryan's half boned stays, as well as the stays in Costume Close Up.

Year: Later 18th century

Notions: Linen thread in various weights, linen tape for lacing, silk ribbon for trim, reed boning. 

How historically accurate is it? As best as I could get. I can't speak for the pattern, but I think it's pretty good. The stitching and materials used were as close to accurate as I could possibly get. I used the same fabrics and thread (materials and weight) as was listed in Costume Close Up. Same stitches, too. It's completely hand done. For sure what's not accurate is that it was not draped for me. Also, the silk ribbon lace across the front was just for fun. No exact examples to support it historically, though I have seen similar designs on the front, like this one. Also, there is a very similar pair of shoes... 

Hours to complete: I really don't know. I started them some time last year and picked them up here and there.

First worn: Not yet.

Total cost: I bought a yard or so of the wool from Burnley and Trowbridge for like $15 or $20. Everything else I had on hand.

On to some notes... All in all, I like how the pattern came together. It was interesting to put together the stays in a very historically accurate way. I must say the leather binding was a nightmare, though. Ugh. The stays fit very well on my body, but on headless they look a little sad, since she has no squish. Next time I decide to make stays, I think I will try a fully boned style. The half boned is nice for later 18th century, but it doesn't have the rigidity for earlier in the century.

Next, the petticoats... Pretty straightforward in their construction. Pretty period correct. I made the linen coat shorter to wear as an under petticoat. The wool can be either under or to wear on the outside.

Fabric: One in white linen and one in blue plain weave wool.

Pattern: None really. Draped by me.

Year: 18th century

Notions: Linen thread and tape for the linen coat. Wool thread and tape for the wool coat.

How historically accurate is it? Pretty darn. I used, to the best of my knowledge, period correct fabrics and stitches. I think the only questionable bit is the width of the selvages. 

Hours to complete: Not too bad. Maybe a few hours or more per coat.

First worn: Not yet.

Total cost: I had the linen on hand. The wool I bought from William Booth for about $20 per yard.

Looking back at my first sewing machine, I'm wondering what's better, new machines or old?

My first machine. A Kenmore 12 Stitch.

I'm really excited about my new (and new to me, but old) machines, and they are all very snazzy and cool, but after a comment about a Kenmore yesterday (thanks, Thread Headed Snippet!), I thought I should devote a little time and love to my first machine, Kendra the Kenmore. 

Haha cheesy, I know.

I really started sewing in High School. Before that, I was always interested, but it was really just dabbling and hand stuff. My mom has had this Kenmore since she bought it new in about '79 or '80. It is crazzzzyyyy heavy and it was probably pretty sweet when it was new. Look at all those stitches!

Oooo fancy stitches...

This machine supplying my only "vintage" sewing experience (by default - just had an old machine, not on purpose) until now, I can at least say that new machines, though shiny and full of stitch options, come no where near. This machine faced the boiling summers of Vegas, below zero temps in Colorado, multiple moves and probably a fall or two, since it was so darn heavy! I know I dropped it as a kid...

Finally, two years ago, after 30 years of chugging along, it finally gave out on me one day and I had to take it to the shop. It just wouldn't turn on. It was probably the first time it had been cleaned, oiled, or even opened up since it came off the assembly line! 

While it was in the shop, I couldn't stand the thought of being without a sewing machine, so I thought I'd treat myself to a new one. I bought a Babylock. Nothing crazy, but definitely a decent machine. I must admit, I was pretty stoked about the automatic button hole...

The Kenmore and the Babylock.
Same size, but the Kenmore weighs twice as much.
Metal versus plastic, hmmm...

When I got the Kenmore back, I finally gave my mom back her machine, thinking I had the better end of the deal. Bah! Barely two years went by when the Babylock conked out (a day before I needed to finish the brown wool gown, no less). I took it in and called up mom to get back the Kenmore. 

I forgot how amazing this thing stitches! The presser foot really holds down the fabric, where the new machine just didn't have the weight to keep yards and yards of fabric in line, even when I held it up (think how many yards you wrangle for a mid 19th century skirt!). The Babylock also skips stitches like it's going out of style. 

So, basically, I know I just bought a new Singer, but I think that might be my last new machine. I think I will use it for crafty things, and light, not precise work. The fancy stitches are fun for that, whereas they rarely ever have a place on historical costumes. The Babylock, I've kept for taking to workshops and traveling... though a Featherweight would be great for that... I need something light. My new singer is a bit of a monster.

Testing out the singer on yards and yards of
sheer cotton - yes, folks, there is a sheer 1860's dress
on the horizon. So far, so good, by the way.

For costumes, however, I think I'm going to mostly stitch vintage. The old machines just do such an amazing job of stitching. They handle the fabric so well, and compared to my new machines, the stitches are so precise. Yes, if there's a problem, it might be hard to locate a part, but I've been trolling Ebay most of the day, for "research" (wink wink), and you can find soooo much! All kinds of parts: original and new replacements. Not to mention, the older machines have a bit of style ;)

I am trying out the new Singer with some light cotton, for a sheer dress. So far, so good. But I'm only on the first tuck. I'm curious to see how it will handle silk satin (hopefully soon up will be a satin Victorian corset). One thing I can say, so far, it's better than the Babylock...

An opinions on new machines versus old? What do you all prefer to sew with?

A vintage day out in 1930's knits.

An oldie, but a goodie. I found these photos from last October that I never shared. Sorry for the weird cropping, but I didn't know if any of the other girls in the photo wanted to be shown. It was a "vintage" outing.

US Library of Congress Flickr

New additions to the family...

...the family of sewing machines! That is steadily growing.

I've been on a bit of a sewing machine binge lately. To be specific, a Singer binge. And it all started one morning at 6 am when I saw "singer" go by as I scrolled through the TV guide. I've never been a tv shopper, but within ten minutes I found myself calling HSN and ordering a machine.

Oh god. A new avenue of shopping.

To add a little context, I have been in the market for a new machine for a while now, and this one was crazy on sale.

So far I'm happy. I haven't sewn anything with it yet, besides repairing some pants, but I did use a new machine as an excuse to go to a sewing machine class. I highly recommend it. I've never gone to a class like this before. I was surprised how much I forgot about using machines. Even little things like "keep the presser foot up when threading."

Kensington Palace, part 3: A Court Mantua

I love big dresses, but there is something about these mid century court gowns that's just absurd! Take a browse down the photos. It amazes me how very narrow this dress is from the side. It reminds me of a paper doll version of an 18th century gown -- wide from the front, disappears from the side!

I will say, though, I love the stomacher and pinked trim across the skirt. Very pretty.