Tuesday, February 12, 2013

The Historical Sew Fortnightly #3 - Under It All

Ah, I finally got something done for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. Yay! And I finally got something out of the UFO pile. Three somethings, actually.

For this challenge, I finished up my 18th century half boned stays and two petticoats, one linen and the other wool. I originally started making them for a Burnley and Trowbrige workshop I was going to back in November, but Hurricane Sandy foiled my plans.

So, to begin, the stays.

The Challenge: #3, Under It All
Fabric: Worsted wool, different kinds of linen, leather for the binding.
Pattern: J.P. Ryan's half boned stays, as well as the stays in Costume Close Up.
Year: Later 18th century
Notions: Linen thread in various weights, linen tape for lacing, silk ribbon for trim, reed boning. 
How historically accurate is it? As best as I could get. I can't speak for the pattern, but I think it's pretty good. The stitching and materials used were as close to accurate as I could possibly get. I used the same fabrics and thread (materials and weight) as was listed in Costume Close Up. Same stitches, too. It's completely hand done. For sure what's not accurate is that it was not draped for me. Also, the silk ribbon lace across the front was just for fun. No exact examples to support it historically, though I have seen similar designs on the front, like this one. Also, there is a very similar pair of shoes... 
Hours to complete: I really don't know. I started them some time last year and picked them up here and there.
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: I bought a yard or so of the wool from Burnley and Trowbridge for like $15 or $20. Everything else I had on hand.
On to some notes... All in all, I like how the pattern came together. It was interesting to put together the stays in a very historically accurate way. I must say the leather binding was a nightmare, though. Ugh. The stays fit very well on my body, but on headless they look a little sad, since she has no squish. Next time I decide to make stays, I think I will try a fully boned style. The half boned is nice for later 18th century, but it doesn't have the rigidity for earlier in the century.

Next, the petticoats... Pretty straightforward in their construction. Pretty period correct. I made the linen coat shorter to wear as an under petticoat. The wool can be either under or to wear on the outside.

Fabric: One in white linen and one in blue plain weave wool.
Pattern: None really. Draped by me.
Year: 18th century
Notions: Linen thread and tape for the linen coat. Wool thread and tape for the wool coat.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty darn. I used, to the best of my knowledge, period correct fabrics and stitches. I think the only questionable bit is the width of the selvages. 
Hours to complete: Not too bad. Maybe a few hours or more per coat.
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: I had the linen on hand. The wool I bought from William Booth for about $20 per yard.

1 comment:

  1. Beautiful! I like the wide, flat front of the peticoats.