HSF #18: Re-make, Re-use & Re-fashion

A while ago, I purchased some American Duchess Pemberley's from the imperfect section, since I missed the initial order. My size was sold out, so I bought one size up. Turns out they were huge, but I knew if I kept them, they would come in handy one day...

The Challenge: #18 Re-make, re-use and re-fashion

Fabric: Blue silk taffeta and white linen for lining.

Pattern: Drafted by me, from the tops of the original shoes.

Year: 1780's

Notions: One pair American Duchess Pemberley's, leather for heels, shoe cement, silk thread, linen thread, cream silk ribbon.

How historically accurate is it? Hmm... the general design is good for the era. The fabrics are good and I tried to construct the uppers to the best of my 18th century knowledge. The shoe I took apart for them was modern and so the sole to upper construction was glued, instead of stitched. Maybe 70% for looks ( I glued on the sole) and 50/50 for construction, since the uppers were done as close as I could, to the best of my knowledge.

Hours to complete: About 7 or 8

First Worn: Not yet. Except around the house to admire them :)

Total Cost: The original shoes, which I bought a while back, so I don't know if it counts. I consider this a stash project, since I had everything at hand. The only thing I really bought was the shoe cement, which was about $10, I think.

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It was a little bit scary ripping apart a pair of perfectly good, unworn shoes, but I had kind of a here-goes-nothing moment and started prying back the sole and then there was no turning back. To me, these shoes were most valuable for the heel. If anyone has tried to find heels like this to purchase, they like don't exist.

New and pretty...

...but too big.

I cut apart one of the tops at the seams and traced a pattern from them, making sure to make the pattern smaller, since the originals were too large. I also had to cut back the sole.

I got all carried away sewing so I forgot to take pictures, but basically I stitched the silk and lining together, following the logic of how 18th century clothing is constructed. I don't know a ton about 18th century shoe construction, so I tried my best to figure out what would work.

I bound the side seams and tops with cream silk. I pinked two strips of silk, gathered them up, and attached them to the fronts, then pinned the uppers to the soles, to attach. I used heavy linen thread across the bottoms the secure the uppers to the rest of the shoe. The only real roadblock was the heels. I don't know how they are attached to the shoe, but they don't unscrew, but they did spin. I pulled, but they didn't pop off. I didn't want to break something and have the heels be unusable, so I had to work the fabric and stitching around the post inside the heel. A little fiddly, but it worked out. 

Yay shoes! I put them on and did a little happy shoe dance before bed :)

Today I went and found shoe cement and reattached the soles. I also removed the plastic heel caps and replaced them with a thick leather I cut to size. I wish there had been a way to sew the soles on, instead of gluing them. The glue doesn't seem as sturdy as stitching would be, but I really couldn't see a way to stitch through the existing, modern shoe. 

All in all, I'm super pleased. I have always loved this look and I am thrilled to have a pair in my closet now. I would definitely make another pair some day. Maybe I can whittle out some wooden heels and make a really legit pair. Until then, this was actually a very easy thing to do.

My jacket, a new cap, a new pair of stays and a ball on the horizon.

Since it was a holiday today, I didn't have anything legit to do, so I had no excuse not to take the time to get dressed and take some photos of my new little jacket. I accessorized with, among other things, a linen cap I made in Janea Whitacre's thimble class at Costume College. It was pretty cool. She sketched me out a pattern for the cap in like two seconds, holding newsprint up to my head a little this way and that.  

In other news, I just finished a new pair of stays. The fastest I have ever made them. I started out all careful, hand stitching, with big plans. I was going to do them up properly for the HSF: Wood, Metal, Something challenge. Then I heard about the Road to Regency symposium and ball (eeek! yay!) at Gadsby's Tavern at the end of September. My husband and I love Alexandria so there's no excuse not to go. So I gave in and zipped the rest of the boning channels through the sewing machine. Everything else I hand sewed. You kind of have to. There's really no way to do anything but the channels on the machine. I figure when I'm not on a deadline I can do some fully boned stays up properly (and with an extra half inch of length... but that's a whole other issue).

I wore them all day today, fitting linings and petticoats and such (for the ball yay!). They are very comfortable, but ideally I would like to do the next pair with a little more length... for ahem, spillage issues. But that's kind of what I get for speeding through and not taking care in fitting. P.s. the pattern is J.P Ryan, which went together nicely.

Another way I saved time on the stays was to bind them with half inch linen tape instead of leather. The seams are also covered with quarter inch linen tape instead of leather. Fabric wise, the stays are made of yellow linen over two layers of white linen and a white linen lining. I used 16/2 linen for the eyelets. The boning is quarter inch reed.

Next up will be a new gown for the ball. I've always wanted to go to a ball at Gadsby's, since I was like twelve probably. I'm kind of stoked :) Eek!

HSF #16: Separates (Ok, so it's two weeks late. Oopsie.)

I'm a little behind on posting. Do forgive me.

The Challenge: Number 16. Separates.

Fabric: Eighteenth century, reproduction printed cotton from the Mary Dickenson shop in Colonial Williamsburg.

Pattern:  A mix of J.P. Ryan's jacket pattern and the jacket on page 39 in Costume Close Up.

Year: About 1775 - 85

Notions: 1 1/8 yards printed cotton, 1 yd linen for lining, cotton thread for seams, 16/2 linen thread for eyelets, reed for boning the stomacher.

How historically accurate is it? I followed the construction techniques in Costume Close Up and tried to stay as close to 18th century sewing techniques as I could. The materials are appropriate to the best of my knowledge, as well.

Hours to complete: I tried something new this time. I actually kept track of what time I spent sewing. This jacket took me 14 hours. Wow, so slow compared to an actual 18th century seamstress. They would have kicked me out of the dress shop :( 

First worn: Not yet. Just for fitting.

Total cost: I think the fabric was around $8.00/yd when I bought it. I don't remember what the linen or thread cost. 

I think my favorite part of working on this jacket was trying to eek it out of a yard of fabric. I gave in and added an extra eighth of a yard to line up the print how I liked it. In order to facilitate this, I pieced a lot of the jacket. Almost every pattern piece, except one center front piece, have a pieced section. All this lining up and piecing, I think, contributed to the jacket taking so long. Also, general laziness and watching tv etc etc. 

I really like this jacket. I know I made it as a separate to add a new piece to the wardrobe, but I have a few yards of the cotton left, so maybe in the future I will add a matching petticoat to the ensemble.

Wool!

I love sewing with wool. I think it is a great fibre to work with. It's warm in the winter, cool in the summer. It gets a little stinky when wet, but hey, don't get wet and you're fine. I'm a fan. I love to buy it, though, not everyday does one get to see where it comes from.

Today was not everyday.

Meet Ba Ba Black Sheep. Little did he know clippers were coming his way.

I went for a ride this morning and when I came back to the barn... Surprise! Let's shear a sheep!

It was definitely an interesting thing to watch. And it gives me a new perspective on why wool is so expensive. Granted, Ba Ba is just a lamb, but think of how many sheep are shorn to make enough yardage for a dress.

Apparently, they get shorn twice a year. Just a fun fact.

I really wanted to get my hands on some and make a little something, but the fleece was already spoken for. Someday I'd like to try my hand at a spinning wheel.

So next time you are sewing with wool, say thank you to the little Lambchops that it came from.

By the way, no lambies were harmed and all that. He just got a little hair cut. We didn't make dinner or anything...

The plan.

So, the plan for my court gown project.

I'm taking two gorgeous gowns and pulling inspiration from both.

Cotton court gown from Kensington palace.
More about it here.

Silk and Silver Court Gown
Colonial Williamsburg
Acc. No. 1953-849,1

Both gowns are late century court gowns from Britain. They are both similar color schemes. The main difference: one is silk and one is cotton!

What? A cotton court gown? Yep, at least one existed and I got to see it on my last visit to Kensington Palace. 

I have some beautiful cotton fabric, covered in spangles, from India (oo authentic!) that I would just love to use for this. 

...Ok, so I was just getting a major flash back as I was typing -- haha -- because I have totally written this before! I wrote a post when I bought this fabric about using it for a combination of these two gowns. Wow. How ever did I forget that!?

Anyway, that is the plan and I look forward to starting on it soon. 

I can't wait to see everyone else's plans and creations!

Accessories and court gowns. Join along!

After a too long summer with no time in my sewing room, a day at Costume College lit a fire under my bustle and now I'm all inspired to make pretty things. Yay!

I'm joining along with, and wanted to share, two great new things to participate in. First, the accessories challenge put on by Trystan's Costume Closet. An accessory a month, starting with headware. I always need more accessories, so this is perfect motivation.

Second, Demode Couture has proposed fabulous court gowns for the gala at Costume College next year. Awesome! Even if you can't make it to Costume College, everyone is still welcome to particpate online. What a great excuse to make and wear those fabulous gowns that we drool over! There are already quite a few talented ladies participating and I can't wait to see all the gorgeous things that will be created.

I'm really excited about having an reason to make this gown I have been oohing and ahhing over for years. It's not a fabulous french robe de cour. It's British, and late century, and so somewhat simple in comparison, but I just love love love it!

Court gown. Silk and silver.
Colonial Williamsburg
Acc. No. 1953-849,1

So head on over to their pages and find out more. Join along! It'll be fun :)

Saturday at CoCo

Saturday I hopped on a plane and spent the day at Costume College. It was way too short, but lots of fun.

I wanted to do the whole weekend, but we had guests in town so I just went for a couple classes. Janea Whitacre's thimble class was definitely worth the early morning. My flight took off at six!

We each got a darling little silver thimble and I had, like, the biggest aha! moment. Apparently I have been holding my needle wrong all these years... Woopsie.

Yes.

No.

I took a filet crochet class, as well. The class was fine, but I am rubbish at it. Like, baaaad.

I got to shop a bit, and found some nice buttons and some little silver bits, including an adorable strawberry for my chatelaine. So cute!

I'm sorry, how freakin cute is this?!

Also, I got to see a room full of ladies in curtain along outfits. Everyone looked fab! I would have loved to meet everyone, but everyone was busy taking pictures and I was dying to find some lunch. So ladies, you looked great! Well done.

Next year I will be definitely be setting aside the weekend to attend... with lots of outfits :)