Wednesday, October 5, 2011

The Matelasse Pockets

Now there are two.

The first one went together so easy I decided to make it a buddy. Both are hand finished, but unlike the first one, which is completely hand done, I used the machine a little bit on the second one, for the inside. So instead of binding the linen over the matelasse selvage, I machine stitched both together and then did an overcast stitch along the edge, since the matelasse tends to unravel. When you turn them right-side out, you would never know the difference. I definitely recommend this time saver.

So for the basic construction, after I made the pouch part and turned it right-side out, I pressed them flat, then I cut a slit for the pocket access. Then I bound the raw edge in twill and hand sewed it in place. In hindsight, I should have cut and bound the pocket before I assembled the pouch, but I thought I didn't have any twill for the binding, so I worked a little backwards. Luckily I found some :)

Next I stitched along the top portion to keep everything in place while I added the drawstring channel. I used a machine zig zag for this on the second pocket. On the first I used a kind of loose button hole stitch. Any overcast stitch would work. For the drawstring channel, I took a rectangle of linen and pressed the edged under. On the open sides I folded the edges under twice and secured them with a running stitch. I did this so when you pull the drawstring though again and again, the linen wouldn't unravel. Then I pressed the rectangle in half and pinned it over the raw edge of the pocket. I backstitched this piece to the pocket and then pulled the drawstring through both. I used more cotton twill for the drawstring, knotting the ends and snipping them decoratively. 

A close up of the channel.

The back view. All linen.

As with everything I make, I'm never 110% sure this was they way they did it back then, but this process worked for me, so it's just another option. Cheers!

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