A look at my new regency bits.

For the Pride and Prejudice and Zombies Halloween ball I attended recently, I had to come up with a new wardrobe quite quickly. I put the most time into the short stays, as I figured I should do them properly and be able to use them again. I used the Sense and Sensibility pattern for this. 

I have read conflicting stories about whether short stays did or did not exist during the regency. The pattern says they did, and it was based on an extant example. Of course, I don't know what year this was. Regardless of authenticity, I chose short stays because they are small and went together quickly, even hand sewn.

I did the channels in a running stitch and corded them with doubled, sport weight cotton yarn. I did some quilting in the panels, too, but it's very hard to see in these photos. The stays are made of a layer or cotton lining, twill interlining, and linen on the exterior.

One note about this pattern. For my size (at least), even when boned, the center front bowed out when worn and didn't lay against the chest, to allow the gussets to separate the boobs. It did lift, though... If I made this pattern again, I might forgo the gussets and use gathered cups instead. Just a thought.

I will say, though, it was very comfortable and fit well, even while bouncing around dancing. 

For the dress, I chopped my basic 18th century bodice, changing the back seams (and everything else by the end, of course lol!). I tried to go for the 1799-1802 look, judging by fashion plates. I constructed it using 18th century techniques.

By no means am I saying this was how regency dresses were constructed. I really didn't know how and needed a dress lickity split, so my logic was a) I get how 18th century dresses were made (mostly the regency era sleeve and shoulder area was where I was clueless), and b) my 1790's dress was made this way... so perhaps it carried on a few years later and I suppose it's logical to think in 1799, a dress could have been constructed like this. Transitional fashion? I don't know...

Not to mention, what I could machine sew (without it showing), I absolutely did. Which is why the gathers are kind of ugly.  Oh well, speedy speedy... I can always take it apart one day.

A few things I do know about this era of dressmaking, which I learned at the Road to Regency Symposium, are evident in the front of the gown. 

First, the front panel of the skirt is cut like 18th century petticoats, in that you slash the top couple inches to allow for a better drape. You can kind of see this through the sheer fabric, in the photo. When I wore it, the white under layers made this invisible, as were the seams and selvages, which are very evident against the dark background, in these photos. 

Second, the bodice front. The bodice crosses under the bib and is fastened with pins, over which the front, which is cut on the bias, for a better fit, is pinned. 

Third, the skirt panels are cut appropriately. The front is a narrow rectangle, the back is a wider rectangle and the sides are a rectangle cut diagonally, arranged so the narrow portion is at the waist and the wider at the hem, to keep as much bulk away from the waist as possible, while allowing the hem to be full.

The petticoat is cut the same way, but minus the bodice and it has shoulder straps. It can be partially seen in the topmost photo. It closes in the back.

I wish I paid more attention to the Regency info at the symposium. I took notes, but I was more enthralled with the late 18th century stuff and my attention was all to that. Ah well.

And below are a couple better pictures of my new knitted, beaded reticule. I am not a knitter really, so this was really fun to make. No pattern. I just loaded up some beads, cast on some crochet thread to the thinnest needles I had, and started going. It's a tiny little thing, but I have heard reticules being described as frivolous and just big enough to hold a few coins. I love stuff like that. 

And I'm really liking knitting more. Annnnddd, it's really fun to step in to a new era. It always a bit overwhelming, but it's fun to have new things to be inspired about.

Pride and Prejudice and Zombies Ball

After the last ball I went to, at Gadsby's, I was super bummed I didn't know any of the dances, or really how to dance at all. So, this last month, I was motivated to go to a few English Country Dance classes. So fun!

Last night was the Pride and Prejudice and Zombies ball. Mom and I donned our dancing shoes (and fake blood) and had a blast. We dressed turn of the 19th century, inspired by some great fashion plates. 

The pictures aren't amazing, but it was pretty dim.

I haven't spent very much time researching early 1800's dress construction, so for the pattern, I took my basic 18th century bodice pattern and hacked it up a bit. I constructed the dress using 18th century techniques, as seemed logical to me, making allowances for a bib front, more period appropriate back seams and the sheer fabric.

I was on a major time constraint with this outfit, so I took a lot of shortcuts, machine stitching as much as I could, like the long seams and even the gathers. I also made a pair of short stays and a petticoat with straps. 

I forgot to take a picture of the short stays (from the Sense and Sensibility pattern), but those I hand sewed. I figured it would be wise to do them properly so I could use them again. Here are a couple in progress shots, from when I was cording them.

Oh! And one from when I had been fitting the dress. And the shift, I picked that up at the Road to Regency Symposium. It was purchased from the Silly Sisters. In hindsight, I probably wore the wrong shift for the dress, because it cuts off halfway down my arm. Oops.

Accessorizing was fun with this outfit. I noticed this side-slung necklace thing going on in a few period fashion plates, like this one. It's so weird. I love it. I added buff-colored, kid skin gloves, a teensy reticule and gladiator-esque flats (beige ghillies).

Special thanks to Jen at Festive Attyre for her great post about easy shawls. I stitched two shawls together to get that decadent length. Speaking of length, the train was not even an issue with the dancing. I pinned the train up during the dancing and it worked out great.

The knit reticule is my submission for the Trystan's Costume Closet October Accessories Challenge. Post on that to come! It's kind of inspired by this extant reticule.

For mom, I took my old Chemise a la Reine and changed the sleeves. I never added a drawstring to the waist, because I was lazy, but that worked out perfect for this. We raised the waistline with silk ribbon, wrapped in imitation of this fashion plate, and this one. I love it! And it kind of has a spider web aesthetic, too. Very appropriate.

The dancing is such fun. I think we will continue to keep up with the classes. Jane Austen Ball in the future perhaps...

Hope everyone had a fun Halloween!

A Ball

The Stolen Kiss, by Fragonard

Over the weekend I attended to the Road to Regency Symposium, held at the Gadsby's Tavern Museum, in Alexandria, Virginia. It was a wonderful event. So many great workshops and speakers! An especially fun thing was getting to put on the white gloves and study a large assortment of extant garments, owned and shared by Mary Dearing. 

But today's post is about the ball. At the end of the weekend, everyone got dressed up and celebrated with a lovely ball. The attire spanned the 1770's to the 1820's. I went for about 1790, and took inspiration from one of my favorite paintings, The Stolen Kiss, by Fragonard. 

We started the evening -- we being my husband (who was such a sport, he even dressed up!) and I -- downstairs at the Tavern for dinner, then headed up to the ballroom. I started the night wearing a kerchief. I had with me a fur trimmed cloak, as well. I never did get a picture of me wearing it, but it was a fun accessory, not that it was really cold enough... I also accessorized with a powdered, hedgehog wig, trimmed with a black bow, a la the painting, my blue silk shoes and some aquamarine earrings.

Everyone looked so amazing!

Surprisingly, of my whole ensemble, my fan seemed to be getting the most attention. I say surprisingly, because it was a last minute addition to my outfit. The morning of the flight I decided I wanted a fan, so I took a white paper fan from Townsend, outlined it in gold marker, and glued a printed out painting on it, which I also outlined in gold. It was such a quick and easy project. I'm glad I made it now.

Below has got to be my favorite picture of the whole night. And I took it totally by accident. For those who haven't been to Gadsby's, that little doorway, up on the wall, is the entrance to the musician's balcony.

Unfortunately I didn't take too many pictures throughout the evening, and even less were taken of me. Isn't that how it always goes when you're having fun?! Below is a fun one, though, via twitter, taken by Gretchen Bulova.

When I found out I was going to the ball, and needed an outfit, I originally purchased some pink fabric to do up. When the days kept passing, and the fabric didn't arrive, I went through the stash and found the blue/brown shot silk (reads as green in the photos) that I had bought back in 2010, with the Fragonard painting in mind. Once I unpack, I'll have to take proper pictures of the gown and accessories to share how they were made up.

It was a really fun night, and whole weekend, and everyone I met was lovely and so welcoming. I can't wait for another one!

Oh, and p.s., I wore my new rump and it turned out great! ;)

A Fancy Quilted Bottom

My fancy new rump started life as a pillowcase. I fell in love with the fabric and knew I would use it for something, someday. It's cotton sateen, quilted, with tambour embroidery. Totally pretty. 

I've been a bit unhappy in the rump department lately. I have quite a few, but so far each one has a drawback. I was looking at Kendra of Demode Couture's excellent study of 18th century skirt supports, and thought I would try number three, which is basically crinoline quilted between layers. The so talented gal at Before the Automobile quilted a beautiful version of this rump, too.

Well, this was the cheater version, since the pillow case was already quilted. I took it apart, folded it in half and stitched the padded part to a strip of plain fabric from the back of the pillow, which was pleated and whipped to a waistband. I bound the front edges with leftover fabric, too.

So far, I like it. It can be worn alone, for a mild bit of pouf, or with a false rump or hips under it, to smooth out the line of the other skirt supports, like a mini quilted petticoat.

And wow, looking at that photo, I could really use a new dress form. Yikes, she is falling apart!

White after labor day. Shh don't tell!

Today I went out to Spring Mountain Ranch for Pioneer Days. The Southern Nevada Living History Association set up a tent and promoted for the upcoming reenactment. I can't believe it's been a year already. 

I had a moment of trepidation, wearing such a summery dress, with fall around the corner, but it was in the 90's today - hot! - so I didn't feel bad for very long. And, big and pouffy as it is, this dress is such a hit with all the little girls, I like wearing it. I was totally one of them when I was that age - haha I still am! 

Obviously, I still get excited about playing dress up...

Today I accessorized with a black silk belt, buckle, brooch at the neck and a sheer paisley shall... from Target! I love it. It's so nice and flowy and sheer. It was perfect for the weather.

And after disrobing (skillfully) in the car, it came with me to lunch at Bonnie Springs, right around the corner from the ranch.

It was a good outfit day, 1860's-wise. My only regret: I found out about the event after getting a manicure... in black. Oopsie. Special thanks to gloves today!

And an interesting first for me... I threw this dress in the washer. The last time I wore it, it was for the Helldorado Parade, and the hem and parts of the skirt were downright black from the greasy asphalt. I shot the spots with Shout Advanced (amazing stuff!), let it sit a day or so, and then threw the whole thing in the wash. Cold water, soak, low spin. I hung it to dry, smoothing out the tucks and wrinkles as best I could. Then yesterday, when I decided to wear it today, I ironed out the skirt and used the steam to work out the wrinkles in the bodice and sleeves. The hem braid shrank a bit, but it was easily stretched back with a little steam iron and stretching it by hand.

It worked out really well. It's really not as scary as I assumed, putting a whole dress in the wash. It looked good today.

Ironing!

HSF #18: Re-make, Re-use & Re-fashion

A while ago, I purchased some American Duchess Pemberley's from the imperfect section, since I missed the initial order. My size was sold out, so I bought one size up. Turns out they were huge, but I knew if I kept them, they would come in handy one day...

The Challenge: #18 Re-make, re-use and re-fashion

Fabric: Blue silk taffeta and white linen for lining.

Pattern: Drafted by me, from the tops of the original shoes.

Year: 1780's

Notions: One pair American Duchess Pemberley's, leather for heels, shoe cement, silk thread, linen thread, cream silk ribbon.

How historically accurate is it? Hmm... the general design is good for the era. The fabrics are good and I tried to construct the uppers to the best of my 18th century knowledge. The shoe I took apart for them was modern and so the sole to upper construction was glued, instead of stitched. Maybe 70% for looks ( I glued on the sole) and 50/50 for construction, since the uppers were done as close as I could, to the best of my knowledge.

Hours to complete: About 7 or 8

First Worn: Not yet. Except around the house to admire them :)

Total Cost: The original shoes, which I bought a while back, so I don't know if it counts. I consider this a stash project, since I had everything at hand. The only thing I really bought was the shoe cement, which was about $10, I think.

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It was a little bit scary ripping apart a pair of perfectly good, unworn shoes, but I had kind of a here-goes-nothing moment and started prying back the sole and then there was no turning back. To me, these shoes were most valuable for the heel. If anyone has tried to find heels like this to purchase, they like don't exist.

New and pretty...

...but too big.

I cut apart one of the tops at the seams and traced a pattern from them, making sure to make the pattern smaller, since the originals were too large. I also had to cut back the sole.

I got all carried away sewing so I forgot to take pictures, but basically I stitched the silk and lining together, following the logic of how 18th century clothing is constructed. I don't know a ton about 18th century shoe construction, so I tried my best to figure out what would work.

I bound the side seams and tops with cream silk. I pinked two strips of silk, gathered them up, and attached them to the fronts, then pinned the uppers to the soles, to attach. I used heavy linen thread across the bottoms the secure the uppers to the rest of the shoe. The only real roadblock was the heels. I don't know how they are attached to the shoe, but they don't unscrew, but they did spin. I pulled, but they didn't pop off. I didn't want to break something and have the heels be unusable, so I had to work the fabric and stitching around the post inside the heel. A little fiddly, but it worked out. 

Yay shoes! I put them on and did a little happy shoe dance before bed :)

Today I went and found shoe cement and reattached the soles. I also removed the plastic heel caps and replaced them with a thick leather I cut to size. I wish there had been a way to sew the soles on, instead of gluing them. The glue doesn't seem as sturdy as stitching would be, but I really couldn't see a way to stitch through the existing, modern shoe. 

All in all, I'm super pleased. I have always loved this look and I am thrilled to have a pair in my closet now. I would definitely make another pair some day. Maybe I can whittle out some wooden heels and make a really legit pair. Until then, this was actually a very easy thing to do.