Friday, June 17, 2016

A Golden Gown


Ah, another UFO down. Feeling satisfied!

I started this one last summer. I had just gotten the At the Sign of the Golden Scissors pattern for an English Gown. I grabbed some silk and got moving. Returning to this, almost a year later, I realized I only ever had six yards of the silk. I don't know how I eeked a fully trimmed, matching-striped gown and petticoat out of only six yards. 

Oh, wait, yes I do. I pieced the crap out of it. But I love that, so it's fine :)


As per usual, I started by following the pattern, and then swiftly detoured away. I made it a closed front. I added cuffs from another pattern, I never checked if the pattern showed a polonaise option, but I did that, too. The pattern instructions were great for reference and information, though. I also referenced some extant gowns I have in my collection. That was extremely helpful! If I have learned anything from extant pieces, it's that they're generally put together much messier than I would want for my own sewing. It seemed like the faster I tried to put together the dress, the better it looked. The imperfections added charm.


All in all, I'm rather jazzed by it. And extremely jazzed that I got it out of only six yards (part of the petticoat was sacrificed for this). I wasn't originally planning on trimming it, because I liked the back neckline, but nearing the end of the fabric, I was curious to see just how far the yardage would go. I was able to trim it, by cutting up the leftover cabbage. Some pieces were only about two inches long!



And here's all that's left. I was so tempted to use the rest, but I couldn't think how to do it in good taste. 


So, if I don't finish the gown I really want for the gala next month, I have a pretty good back up! Yay!

Thursday, June 16, 2016

UFO's off the pile!


A couple weeks ago I got my limited class list from Costume College, and was lucky enough to get the class I wanted. Woot woot! And then I read, at the bottom of the page, that I needed to come wearing stays, shift and petticoat...

Let me confess, I haven't sewn anything since like February.

Reading that got me all excited, though, and lit a well needed fire under my bum roll.

And what did I have festering in the UFO pile, but some almost done stays and a shift! Perfect! I got cracking and finished them up. And a dress, too! But that's for another post :)

The shift pattern was from At the Sign of the Golden Scissors. Actually, it wasn't a pattern, it was a pre-cut kit, which was supposed to make this a fast project. 


I started it in 2013... Whoops!

It went together really well. The instructions were helpful and I tried to keep to them. I do wish the linen was a little softer, but being the weight that it is, it will be perfect for keeping boobs tidy while trying to drape patterns in public.


The stays were started, I think, about two years ago. I thought my yellow linen stays never fit quite right in the bust. Too small. So I drafted this pattern on top of my old stays. They are blue worsted wool, with reed boning, and edged with leather. I only cheated with the machine on the channels. At the time, as in two years ago, I just didn't have it in me. These pictures were from the final fitting, before I closed them up on the bottom.


I'm sure a theme can be sensed here: I needed new undies so no wardrobe malfunctions mid-class :) Maybe I need a bedgown, too...


My favorite part was cross stitching my initials into the shift. Sometimes it's the little details make the most mundane of projects exciting. 

And, nope, they're not lined. Yet. I'm sure I'll have time soon, but I sacrificed the lining to work on more fun, exciting things :)



Sunday, April 17, 2016

Oops! The corset and chemise I forgot to post about...

Woopsie! I was on such a roll in February, and then I forgot to post about it!


Then I found these photos hiding in my computer last night. Time to share!

I redid my Edwardian corset and I think it's such an improvement on fit. I originally made it in a workshop and it never fit correctly. It smashed my hips, was too big in the chest, and didn't give the correct silhouette at all. Now that I let out the hips, the waist can reduce nicely, and so now the bust fits, too. Yay!

It's not terribly impressive lying on a table, so I'll have to put it on soon and take some proper pictures... But I've been so costuming lazy lately. Which might be why I never posted about it...


I had a lot of fun trimming this corset. I stitched some rows of lace and beading together for the bust and added some yummy silk ribbon. The garters were surprisingly easy. I stretched elastic as I fed it through the machine, stitching lace trim to the sides, to add a bit of fluff. The top of the elastic loops around safety pins to attach them to the body of the corset. The ends are fed around garter pieces, with slides to adjust the length. I also flossed it - love details!



Because I was redoing a corset, and not starting from the bringing, the grommets and busk were already in place. I made the lace work around them by slicing though it, turning it under, and stitching the lace around the grommets and busk. 


And then I made a new chemise! With the move, and a lot of my costumes still being in storage, I couldn't find my edwardian chemise I had made just before the move. But that's ok - I made a newer, better one! 


I really had a lot of fun with all the lace and insertion. Now I just need to motivate myself to get working on the outer layers. I'm feeling a little more inspired, though, since the costume college packet came!


Sunday, January 31, 2016

HSF #1: Procrastination


I'm quite happy I finally quit procrastinating and got working on my new Edwardian Undies. I first bought the pattern and intended on beginning it two years ago! It's about time I got around to starting them. And finishing them.

Ah, but if I had a nickel for every time I did that...


The Challenge: #1, Procrastination

Material: Cotton Batiste

Pattern: Truly Victorian TVE02

Year: About 1903

Notions: Lace, china buttons, silk ribbon.

How historically accurate is it? The materials are correct, though after starting the project, I questioned using a zig zag stitch on the insertion, as I didn't see instructions for insertion like that in my antique sewing manuals. After looking into it, as far as I can tell, the zig zag stitch was invented in the late 19th century, but was only used in industrial sewing until the late 1940's. But I had gone too far to switch the stitching... Ah well, with each project I learn more to be better next time!

Hours to complete: About a week of sewing in the afternoons.

First worn: Not yet!

Total cost: I didn't count. I had pretty much everything in my stash. Just ordered some extra insertion and ribbon after running out. 

Friday, January 22, 2016

Frilly things ahead!


Yay! I've been so productive this last week! I dove into making new Edwardian undies with full force. 

Monday, January 18, 2016

Rotten Row


When researching riding habits, inevitably, one comes across any number of prints and paintings depicting Rotten Row and riding in the Row. Rotten Row (corrupted from Route du Roi, or the King's Road) is a bridle path in Hyde Park, that was thee place to be seen riding in London, most famously during the 19th century. Riding there in the morning was quite a social, and fashionable, experience.

Much to my delight, one can still go for a ride there! I booked an early morning ride, before the joggers and cyclists came out. The park was beautiful and misty and quiet. I could not believe we were right in the center of London!


Not quite side saddle, but I'll take what I can get! I got to ride a cute little Irish Cob named Buzz. 





And there it is, Rotten Row. Check one off the bucket list!


Now I'm quite inspired to make a riding habit. I can't believe I haven't made one yet! Goal for this year, I think!

Sunday, January 17, 2016

The Wallace Collection



The Wallace Collection was definitely a highlight of this London trip, and I can't believe I have never heard of it before! 

The Collection is housed at Hertford House in Manchester Square, which is the former townhouse of the Seymour family, Marquesses of Hertford. It's a little off the beaten path, just north of Oxford St, but very a walkable distance from the shops. 

The house is beautiful and full of some very well known pieces of art. And... it's free to go in!