Showing posts with label Flame Stitch Wallet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Flame Stitch Wallet. Show all posts

Friday, October 14, 2011

A pocketbook, leather shoes and a little more on buckles.


So a little about each piece:

The pocketbook is finally finished. It is bound with navy wool tape from William Booth Draper. As I understand it, this method of binding the edges of an item with tape is called "ferreting." Please do correct me if I'm wrong. I learned this from "The Glossary of 18th Century Costume Terminology." They don't specifically list pocketbooks as something this term applies to, but I'm inferring...

The inside of the pocketbook is constructed very simply, with no little gussets at the edge of the pockets inside. This is a personal preference. I have never actually seen this method of construction on an extant wallet, just to note. Also, a lot of original wallets have a piece of the wool tape, connected to each corner, creating a bit of a triangle, which I think is supposed to keep the flap edges down. I didn't do this simply because I never really liked how it looked.



The papers are reproduction 18th century
American money from Williamsburg.

Below are some originals. You can see the triangular tape I mentioned and some other methods of constructing the inside pockets.

Man's wallet. Live Auctioneers.

Man's wallet. Live Auctioneers.

MFA, American, New England 1750 - 1800
The shoes are leather Devonshires from American Duchess. The design in based on this pair of original shoes. I do not know where they are housed. If anyone does, please do share.


The original shoes are made of cloth. I can't tell what type of fabric, however. The design seems to be painted on and the edges are bound. Perhaps they are bound in silk because it looks shiny and smooth. 

For mine, I chose to use leather shoes to try something different. I went totally non-traditional and decorated them with permanent markers. It worked fantastic! I find, you can get a much smoother and more precise fine line with markers than with a paint brush. It was cheating a little, but who's counting... I would have loved to be able to bind the edges, but I couldn't figure out a good way to do this, since the shoes are already constructed, and I wasn't going to go opening up seams!

I did not seal the design in any way. No more scotchguard for me! I don't think it works on leather though... I think there is sealant you can use for when you stain leather, but I don't have any. Also, I was a little timid to mess with them further after the scotch guard fiasco on the last pair. These shoes can probably go outside and be just fine. I will have to see and report back. 

The buckles are from Fugawee. A note about attaching buckles to the latchets: a lot of reproduction buckles do not have very sharp prongs. To help this, mark the spots and use an awl to make the holes. Please don't ever use a leather punch. It will leave too large holes in leather and you will never be able to adjust the size again without the previous holes showing, and if the shoes are fabric, there is a good chance the cloth will start to fray.




In my last post, about the black silk shoes, there was a lot of attention paid to the antique buckles I shared. I wanted to show them in closer detail, since there was quite a bit of interest regarding how they poke through the latchets. I mentioned they have very sharp prongs, making them incredibly easy to attach without ruining your shoes. Please excuse that they are a bit tarnished. See below:



I think the lower prong may be broken off a little.






Sunday, October 2, 2011

Almost done!

Front view. Pinned closed.

I haven't had a lot to say about this project lately just because there was no new news. Stitching, stitching, stitching... But now that I have finished the needlework part, I thought I'd share the construction of the actual wallet. First to note, I shortened the length of the wallet from the original plan. It would have been way too long. Now its just long enough to fold in half, with a little extra for the flap. 

The inside is cream silk, lined with canvas to keep it sturdy. The pockets are lined with canvas, too. Now I'm just waiting on some wool twill tape to come so I can bind the outer edge. I'm also going to press the inside because it's a little warped and wrinkly as of now.

Back view.

The whole design.

Pocket view.

Pocket view part dos.

Friday, September 9, 2011

I was up in the mountains for Labor day, and I totally intended to bring the bargello with and finish it, but instead I just did outdoorsy things and hung out with deer for a week.



They are fearless! They come up so close and don't even care if you're there. Well, until my dogs decided to chase them down...

As for the needlepoint, I did get some more of it done. I think the colors are looking pretty good.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Candy Corn Anyone?


So as I'm bargello-ing away today, thinking how fast this is all coming and how great it's going to be, it hits me: all I can see is candy corn.


So I stopped off at Michael's and picked up more floss, in a whole rainbow of colors. Now I have a new plan... and no more candy corn. Let's save that for halloween.

From left to right: yellows in 742, 725 and 445. Pinks in
335, 776 and 818. Greens in 319, 367 and 368. Blues in 336, 798
and 932. Then the yellows repeat. The cream color in between each is 746. All DMC.

A Flame Stitch Pocketbook

MFA, American, New England 1750 - 1800

In the 18th century flame stitch pocketbooks were very popular. If you google "flame stitch wallet" or "flame stitch pocketbook" you get tons of pictures. I don't know if this style of pocketbook was exceedingly popular, or if so many have survived because of their durability, but either way, there are tons of first hand sources to reference.  This style of wallet seems to be predominantly found in America, and the extant examples I have seen, seem to be owned by both men and women.

LACMA, Abigale Alden, America, 1765


Timothy Mann,  Massachusetts, 1771

A little bit about the embroidery: