|Matelasse pocket from the V&A. England, 1760-1775.|
A bit on matelasse from the Victoria and Albert Museum:
"Quilting was a popular form of decoration for a variety of garments including pockets. However, hand-quilting was a time-consuming method of decoration. The increased demand for quilted petticoats, waistcoats and pockets led to the invention of woven quilting. In this technique, an extra weft of thick thread was added to the fabric to give the raised effect of the handmade version. Robert Elsden is credited as the inventor of woven quilting, known by the French term, matelassé. He received a prize from the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce, in 1745, although the perfection and commercial exploitation of this technique of machine quilting appears to have taken place in the 1760s."
So on to the pocket.
|Image via housefabric.com|
I found some nice matelasse from housefabric.com. It's very soft and pretty thin. Some other matelasse fabric I've worked with in the past was quite stiff and hard to sew. The back, like the original pocket, will be done in plain linen and the draw string will be cotton twill tape.
To start, I drew up a pattern. I traced a pocket I already had and then shortened it a little and changed the shape. Then I turned it inside out and hand sewed the lining and front piece together.
I snipped the matelasse selvage and then turned the linen selvage over it and whipstitched to cover the raw edge. After it's turned inside out I'll use linen to make a channel for the drawstring, then I'll bind the pocket slit with cotton twill, which I'm waiting for to arrive.
That's all for now, but more to come!