Wednesday, August 28, 2013

HSF #16: Separates (Ok, so it's two weeks late. Oopsie.)

I'm a little behind on posting. Do forgive me.



The Challenge: Number 16. Separates.
Fabric: Eighteenth century, reproduction printed cotton from the Mary Dickenson shop in Colonial Williamsburg.
Pattern:  A mix of J.P. Ryan's jacket pattern and the jacket on page 39 in Costume Close Up.
Year: About 1775 - 85
Notions: 1 1/8 yards printed cotton, 1 yd linen for lining, cotton thread for seams, 16/2 linen thread for eyelets, reed for boning the stomacher.
How historically accurate is it? I followed the construction techniques in Costume Close Up and tried to stay as close to 18th century sewing techniques as I could. The materials are appropriate to the best of my knowledge, as well.
Hours to complete: I tried something new this time. I actually kept track of what time I spent sewing. This jacket took me 14 hours. Wow, so slow compared to an actual 18th century seamstress. They would have kicked me out of the dress shop :( 
First worn: Not yet. Just for fitting.
Total cost: I think the fabric was around $8.00/yd when I bought it. I don't remember what the linen or thread cost. 
I think my favorite part of working on this jacket was trying to eek it out of a yard of fabric. I gave in and added an extra eighth of a yard to line up the print how I liked it. In order to facilitate this, I pieced a lot of the jacket. Almost every pattern piece, except one center front piece, have a pieced section. All this lining up and piecing, I think, contributed to the jacket taking so long. Also, general laziness and watching tv etc etc. 
I really like this jacket. I know I made it as a separate to add a new piece to the wardrobe, but I have a few yards of the cotton left, so maybe in the future I will add a matching petticoat to the ensemble.












21 comments:

  1. It's so beautiful! I love all of the piecing, and you did an amazing job matching the print!

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    1. Thanks so much! I'm pretty proud of the piecing myself :)

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  2. So cute! I love the shape of the skirt section, love the fabric, love the piecing, I love your lacing (which appears to be silk ribbon--do you find that is sturdy enough?). So cute! I hope you find an opportunity to wear it so we can see more pictures.

    It is super similar to the jacket I'm having problems with! Thanks for the encouragement. I do have enough fabric for self trim, but it's a rather thick cotton, so I don't how I would finish the edges in an un-bulky, un-frayable way... hm. With a stomacher front it might not need trim though. Maybe a stomacher is just the way to go.

    Best,
    Quinn

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    1. Thanks! It is silk ribbon. It's the first thing I grabbed that worked when I took the pictures. It's super sheer so it probably wouldn't last long. Maybe some sturdier silk ribbon or linen tape for when I wear it.

      You probably don't need trim if you do a stomacher, or you can use the pretty ribbon you had to lace it closed. I almost did pleated trim on this but I wasn't thrilled with the cotton, so I know what you mean.

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  3. I have that same fabric in an English back gown. Wow, piecing and matching the fabric! That is an accomplishment! Great work!
    Laurie

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    1. Wow thank you so much! I was really thrilled with the piecing. The only piece I wasn't able to match up was one of the sleeves. Oh well... I get kind of excited with the piecing :)

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  4. Wonderful job piecing and pattern matching, the undulations in the back and front look so cool!

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  5. so is the pointy arrow shaped piece the part called a stomacher?? - how does it stay up??

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    1. Yes, that piece is the stomacher. Traditionally, that piece would be pinned, with straight pins, to the stays, or "corset".

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    2. & then the jacket is laced over it? but open to show it off?? the effect is very pretty

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    3. Yep, the jacket is laced over it. Or, as with a lot of gowns, there is no lacing and the stomacher shows and is often decorated.

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  6. Beautiful work! I'm doing my very first ensemble, and LOVE being inspired by amazing finished pieces, like yours. I have the same J.P. Ryan pattern, so I was so excited to see it done up so spectacularly. I've just purchased fabric. (No piecing for me, this time!) I have recently completed a stomacher crewel kit and thought this would be the perfect jacket to highlight it. Thanks for the inspiration!

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    1. Thank you! An embroidered stomacher sounds beautiful with this! You can also skip the lacing and pin your jacket closed, so you don't obscure your embroidery on the stomacher.

      I love JP Ryan's patterns, by the way. They go together very nicely. Best of luck on your outfit!

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  7. Stunningly superbly gorgeous!!!

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  8. Soooo pretty. I think separates are vastly underestimated, there are so many colors in the pattern that you'll be able to pair it with almost any petticoat! Beautiful :)

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    1. Thanks :) I agree. I didn't even think of it when I chose the fabric, but it would go with quite a lot of colors.

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