|Kyoto Costume Institute|
I'm guessing Lisere?
It doesn't say for sure.
Liseré - Term which refers to a specific type of fabric construction involving a supplementary warp. This supplementary warp, usually multi-colored, can be used to add color and detail in selected areas on the face of the fabric. Where the liseré effect is not seen on the face of the fabric, it is hidden along the back as loosely tacked "floats." Liseré effects are in some ways similar to a tissue pick, however liseré occurs in the warp direction. Most classic liseré designs are stripes, frequently used on wing-back chairs or in formal settings. (quoted from Regal Fabrics Inc)
Lampas - a type of luxury fabric with a background weft (a "ground weave") typically in taffeta with supplementary wefts (the "pattern wefts") laid on top and forming a design, sometimes also with a "brocading weft". (quoted from Wikipedia)
Brocade - Brocade was originally an elegant, heavy silk fabric with a floral or figured pattern woven with gold or silver thread, produced in China and Japan. Currently, any of the major textile fibers may be used in a wide range of quality and price. Brocades are typically ornate, jacquard-woven fabrics. The pattern is usually emphasized by contrasting surfaces and colors, and appears on the face of the fabric, which is distinguished easily from the back. Uses include apparel, draperies, upholstery, and other decorative purposes. (quoted from Regal Fabrics Inc)
|From Weaver and Loom|
So basically, Lisere is brocaded fabric that has the embellishment threads along the warp, or longways, whereas Lampas is brocaded with the embellishment threads on the weft, much like a railroaded design.
Ooo it's just so rich looking! I love it. I'm day dreaming of making a sacque from something like this one day!
|Example of Lampas|
Reproduction c. 1760-70
|Brunschwig & Fils "Antoinette"|
|This gives a good view of the supplementary |
wefts on the backside of the fabric.
|Another example of Lisere, not in a stripe, |
as it is commonly seen.
|A dress made of the same fabric, |
as seen in Marie Antoinette (2006)
The Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes
|...and Valmont (1989)...|
|...and Dangerous Liasons (1988)!|
And a tip when looking for reproduction brocades: browse eBay. Most of these fabrics are available only to decorators and they are very, very expensive, but there are often remnants and yardage for sale on eBay and you can get some at a discounted price. Yay!