A Mid 19th Century Daguerreotype

I picked up this little picture frame last time I was in Alexandria, VA. I bought it because she looked pretty and friendly. To be honest, I don't buy a lot of these because sometimes the people look so sad! And they creep out my husband... but hey, it's research! 

Anyway, it wasn't until I brought it out some months later, at a sewing event, that I took a good look at her outfit. Someone, who is very familiar with the 1860's, brought it to my attention that her dress looks a little incongruous to her age, with the short sleeves and boat neck. In passing, I just assumed it was an evening dress, but mid 19th century isn't my strongest era. I'm very, very much still learning. 

Anybody have any ideas about this one?

Also, here is the back of her frame. Very pretty leather work! It has a hinge, so I'm assuming the other side of the frame had a second picture. I wonder what it was of.

* Update as of 12/9/10: I had not posted this originally as a dagguerotype, but I thought it smart to go back and edit this post as of new info. I had also, possibly wrongly, listed this as 1860's. Thanks Ginger, from Scene in the Past, for the new info. I don't want to put anything wrong out there!

Something helpful to keep in your sewing room.

No, not for needle poked fingers. 

... Though keeping a band aid or two around is never amiss... 

This time the paper tape is for thread. Thread, ribbon, embroidery floss, anything stringy and messy really. 

The "gentle" paper tape is sticky enough to hold, but not too sticky, like some regular tape, so it's easy to remove and doesn't leave gross residue or badly pull on the fibers when you pull it off. 

A little piece is great for keeping the thread from unraveling on spools that don't have a notch for holding the thread, like the green thread above. I use it also for the spools that do have the notch, like the brown thread. For me, it's just faster and more tidy than trying to catch the thread in the little slit or notch. 

It's also great for embroidery floss, both like the blue above and the brown skein, below. Something I do, which works for me, with the skeins - which can be so messy! - is I pull off the tubular labels, save the one with the color number, cut it lengthwise and wrap it back around the floss. Then I secure the label back with a little piece of tape. You can use regular tape for this too, of course, since it's not touching the floss. 

Another thing this tape is handy for is to use it in place of pins, when pins might get in the way, especially when using a sewing machine. Example: holding down a zipper or applique/trim to be stitched. Just be sure to test on an inconspicuous bit of fabric first, or on a scrap. 

A tidy sewing room is a happy one! :)

Inspiration for the Brown Wool Dress

When I was researching 1880's fashions for the brown wool dress, I first tried to look at as many photos from the period as I could. Second I looked at extant pieces, and third I browsed fashion plates. I tried to go for actual photos to get the real "look" of an outfit, before I started cutting and sewing.

c. 1880's carte de visite from my collection

I like her. She looks friendly!

I saved loads of pictures of CDV's and cabinet cards from eBay and etsy, since obviously, it wasn't possible to buy all of them. I was especially inspired by the above picture, so I was thrilled when it was still for sale after I finished the dress.

I bought it and it just came in the mail yesterday! Yay! 

This picture really inspired the pleating on the front of my bodice. It also steered me away from a bonnet and toward a tall hat. Someone referred to this style as a "flower pot" hat. It really does look like a pot, turned upside down! 

I kept going back to this picture as I sewed. I love how the bodice is pulling a bit and she's a little wrinkly all over. It reminded me that I was making real clothes, not a costume, perpetually steamed, pressed and flawless on a mannequin.

Another picture I fell in love with is the photograph of Louise, Princess Royal (#157) in Alison Gernsheim's book, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, A Photographic Survey. In the book, it's a full length shot of the same outfit, pictured below. Great book.

Louise, Princess Royal.
Wikimedia Commons.

Actually, online I found a scan of the full length photo. Click here for it. The size of her bustle is interesting, considering I didn't see too many prominent bustles in the CDV's and cabinet cards I studied. Whereas, they were ALL over the fashion plates of the era. Interesting to see what everyday ladies wore. Perhaps Princess Louise was quite fashionable, being a royal and all... Thoughts?

Frances Folsom Cleveland's Gown

One of my favorite museums to visit is the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History in Washington DC. The first time I went I was a little kid, and you could not get me out of the first ladies' exhibit for anything!

Why, you ask?

Gowns.

Lots of gowns. Two hundred years of gowns.

Though there is only a small selection of gowns and accessories out at any given time, apparently the museum has thousands of artifacts relating to the first ladies. They have Martha Washington's dress, Abigale Adams' shoes, Mary Todd Lincoln's lorngettes (do you think she took them to the theater that night?...) and lots of other artifacts from Martha to today. And since Helen Taft, it has been tradition for each first lady to give her inaugural dress to the exhibit.

But today I'm going to be highlighting Frances Folsom Cleveland's wedding dress.

Frances Folsom Cleveland's dress, c. 1886.

I totally love this dress. The gown is of ivory satin, with a sheer over trim at the bust. It has a grand train and some lovely asymmetrical pleats and gathers on the skirt. 

The day after the wedding, the Washington Post reported, "The bride wore an enchanting white dress of ivory satin, simply garnished on the high corsage with India muslin crossed in Grecian folds and carried in exquisite falls of simplicity over the petticoat. The orange blossom garniture, commencing upon the veil in a superb coronet, is continued throughout the costume with artistic skill. She carried no flowers and wore no jewelry except an engagement ring, containing a sapphire and two diamonds."

Frances Cleveland wearing the dress,
ornamented with garlands of
Orange Flower blossoms.

Frances married President Cleveland in June of 1886, in the White House's Blue Room, at the age of 21. She is the youngest first lady so far, and their marriage had the biggest age gap of all the Presidents and first ladies, with a 27 year difference. The Clevelands are the only couple to be married in the white house and to have a baby born in the White House, as well. 

A stereograph of the Blue Room, taken during the Grant years.

Apparently Frances was quite fashionable for the day and was so well liked, she even received fan mail!

The Clevelands' wedding in the Blue Room.
Image via Wikimedia Commons

Esther Cleveland is the only baby to be born
 in the White House. She was born on
September 9th, 1893.
The White House Archives

Unfortunately, when I went to see this exhibit again last year, the dress wasn't on display. However, I remember, very vividly, from years past, that the dress had a little dime sized, light brown, splattery stain on the lap. I always thought this was the coolest thing because it made it so real and I could really picture her wearing it, and oops! Spilling a a little soup, or perhaps wine, in her lap. 

Now, this didn't necessarily happen at the wedding, as the dress was altered after, to an evening gown for two state events later that same June, and once more for a formal portrait on the 29th of June, 1886.

The Smithsonian also has another dress of hers and a bonnet on display on their website. 

From the First Ladies' Fashions exhibit,
"Frances Cleveland wore this silk evening gown
with fur-edged hem and black-satin-and-jet trim during
her husband’s second administration. It was made
by Baltimore dressmaker Lottie Barton."

Cleveland's cream velvet bonnet.

And because it's almost Christmas... The Cleveland family's Christmas tree!

The Cleveland's Christmas tree, c. 1895,
displayed in the Family Room and Library,
 now the Yellow Oval Room.
The White House Historical Association

Have a happy day all!

Eye Candy on a Wednesday Morning

Or, day dreaming about my sewing wish list...

American, mid 1880's.
 The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

A frilly, satiny, gorgeous corset has been on my wish list for a while now. 

So far, my only Victorian corset (that fits) is a basic, white coutil, 1860's version. I've never been super into the 19th century, but after the last few outfits I've researched, made and worn, I've developed more of an appreciation for that long stretch years, and fashions, spanning Queen Victoria's reign. 

Honestly, I think I've been a little daunted by the complexity of garments and the frequent changing of shapes and silhouettes, during the Victorian years. The 18th century is so safe to me! I'm so comfortable there. But ooo I like a challenge. And change.

In the 21st century, I dress really quite neutral. A lot of black, a lot of grey, not a lot of frill. Some of this spills over into my costuming. As in, I get more excited about the plain brown wool than the gorgeous pink moire that's been hibernating up in my stash for the past two years.

But I do day dream about frilly... 

Right now, I'm salivating over the idea of a fabulous 1880's corset to go with my brown wool gown I am so loving right now. 

I am especially loving this cream satin corset from the Met. And see what I mean, monochrome off white is my fabulous! But really, I love this one! Click the link and check it out with the zoom feature. Drool.

I am in love with the bust cording! I think I have some satin ribbon I
can use for the bow.

Next month I'm headed back to England.
I'm planning on visiting my favorite lace seller and hunting down some
nice 19th century lace edging and beading for the top.

I'll have to find some nice, matching perle for the flossing.

So far, I have a pattern to start with. I think it's Truly Victorian. I have a couple yards of ivory silk satin from Pure Silks, as well as some good coutil to flatline the silk to. 

Ivory silk satin from Pure Silks. In person, it looks
much more rich and heavy and has softer looking folds.

I have a busk and boning that's waiting to be cut, and some nice ivory silk satin ribbon for the bow. Next month, when I'm back in London, I'll go visit my favorite little lace stall at Portobello and I hope to score some nice antique lace for the top. Aside from the lace, which is just frosting, I have pretty much everything I need to get started. Once the busyness of Christmas is over, I hope to get started on this. I'm really excited!

I'm especially excited for the challenge of working with a satin weave. I think a lot of testing will have to go into the techniques, like the cording and the exterior boning channels. I've never worked with satin on a project like this. I hope it's not too fiddly.

Have a happy Wednesday all!

A Little Trip to The V&A

For those of us who stayed home this holiday weekend and did not travel, I thought I would suggest a little trip across the sea to one of our (yes, I'm sure anyone who reads this blog loves this place - how could you not!?) favorite places: The Victoria and Albert Museum.

The V&A is one of my very favorite museums for costume research. I haven't yet been to Kyoto, but I'm sure the Kyoto Costume Institute will tie for first if I ever get to go! But back to the V&A. 

Top five reasons why I love it:

1. It always has some kind of great costume exhibit going on.

2. It's in London

3. It has a huge shop

4. The shop has amazing costume books

5. You can take pictures!

Ok. Let's go!

An 1880's Outing

1880's Wool Dress, photos by Lisa Coffey.

Pouf! A new dress!

I haven't posted anything about the progress of this new dress because I had to make it so darn fast. Last month we (as in the civilian ladies of the Southern Nevada Living History Association) decided to do a bustle era outing, which coincided with an SNLHA "timeline" event at the Old Mormon Fort, which is an event where one can portray any era they wish. Very fun.