Happy Saturday all! This was a pretty productive week. I've made progress on a number of projects. I often start a bunch at once so I can rotate between them as I get tired and/or bored :)
I finished up a bedgown, or shortgown, got two petticoats ready to be pleated and finished up, got a good start on a queen stitch pinball and I started binding my stays.
A little about the petticoats first. One is white linen, to be worn as an underpetticoat, so it will be a little on the short side. The blue one is wool from William Booth Draper. Both are hand stitched with linen thread.
The construction, so far, has gone very well. Very simple. I measured from my waist down to get a length for the coats (front and back - they are often different), then added inches for seam allowances. The fabric was fiddly to tear, so I pulled a thread out and cut along the open space to get the rectangles. The selvedges became the side seams, which were done up in running stitches with an occasional backstitch thrown in for good measure. Space was left open at the top for pocket slits. Then I hemmed the bottom with a 1/2" hem, also stitched the same way. Next both coats will have the top (waist edge) folded down and pleated to a band of tape. Wool for the wool and linen for the linen. Easy peasy.
As an experiment, I decided to do these in assembly line fashion, instead of one at a time. It seems to be faster, since each step I am doing twice in a row, instead of completely one petticoat and starting all over again.
|The leather is still unfinished at the tabs.|
The stays, above, are completely hand sewn, as well, and done up as true to the 18th century way as I have learned. In the last week, I made the eyelets up the back (linen 16/2 from William Booth), tacked leather strips down the seams and started binding the bottom with leather as well. I got the leather from Burnley and Trowbridge.
So tough! The leather is killing me. I - of course - use a thimble, but it is still no easy task. It's taken hours and I have gone through a few needles already, but I'm a little bit thrilled to be nearing the end and being one step closer to having my own hand sewn stays. Yay :)
So on to the pinball...
|Queen stitch looks like little diamonds to me.|
I started stitching this up thinking it would go oh-so-quickly. Queen stitch turns out to be very tedious, especially when it's almost white on white! But I think it's looking cute so far :) I loosely based the design on an extant pinball from the Winterthur Collection. I smooshed it up in my hoop for the photo.
I have used DMC cotton floss, separated into single strands, on a backing of white linen.
And lastly, the bedgown, or shortgown. The only thing I truly finished this week.
|Sorry, I need a pressing.|
I scaled up a pattern from Costume Close Up, and then added inches here and there so it would fit me. Looking back, I would have added a smidge extra to the sleeves. The length is just past the hip, so it could have used a bit more there as well, to look like the shortgowns I have seen in paintings and prints, however I need it for a mantua making workshop, where I'm sure I will be taking it on and off frequently for fitting, and I didn't want yards of loose of fabric tangling around me.
The short gown is lined and sewn with white linen. The seams/hems follow the instructions in the book, as best I could understand. They are a mix of combination stitch (running with occasional back), whip stitch, slip stitch and point a rabbatre sou la mains. The assembly entails stitching the fashion fabric layers and one lining together, then folding the second lining over it and stitching that down to enclose the seam. There is a nice illustration of this in Costume Close Up.
|Piecing! I love piecing :)|