Saturday, June 10, 2017

Inside a Turn of the Century Evening Gown, Part 1: The Bodice


It's been a while since I've shared the insides of one of my collection. I pulled this gown out of the tissue to study the insides for a new evening gown I have started. This dress looks like it could be home-made, but if it was, it was made by someone who knew what they were doing. I suppose it could have been made by a private dressmaker, but I very much doubt it came from any kind of fashion house or department store. There are no labels and the inside is kind of a mess. Of course, the messy insides are my favorite! So, on to the masses of pictures!

I'll start with the bodice today. The skirt will follow, since there are just too many pictures for one post!

Enjoy!


The bodice is sewn in a pretty standard manner for turn of the century sewing. The silk moire is flatlined with a cotton sateen, the raw edged are overcasted. A cotton twill waist tape is secured to the CF and dart bones. It closes with metal hooks and eyes.



The hem is faced with more of the cotton sateen. The bottom of the CB opening also closes with metals hooks and thread eyes. The rest of the CB laces up.




Under the lacing holes is a silk placket.


The bones casings are made of the same cotton sateen as the the lining. They are free of the lining for about an inch at the top of each bone. 



The neckline has an applied casing with a drawstring. The casing is pieced. The drawstring can be tightened both at CF and CB.






The decorative velvet pieces are tacked to the outside of the bodice. The only part of the piece that is in bad shape is the top of the sleeves, where the silk is shredding. Inside, sandwiched between the silk and the lining of the sleeve is a stiff tulle, presumably to hold the shape of the sleeve. It can kind of be seen in the bottom picture, just above my finger.



Next up, the skirt!

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