The Challenge: Number 16. Separates.
Fabric: Eighteenth century, reproduction printed cotton from the Mary Dickenson shop in Colonial Williamsburg.
Pattern: A mix of J.P. Ryan's jacket pattern and the jacket on page 39 in Costume Close Up.
Year: About 1775 - 85
Notions: 1 1/8 yards printed cotton, 1 yd linen for lining, cotton thread for seams, 16/2 linen thread for eyelets, reed for boning the stomacher.
How historically accurate is it? I followed the construction techniques in Costume Close Up and tried to stay as close to 18th century sewing techniques as I could. The materials are appropriate to the best of my knowledge, as well.
Hours to complete: I tried something new this time. I actually kept track of what time I spent sewing. This jacket took me 14 hours. Wow, so slow compared to an actual 18th century seamstress. They would have kicked me out of the dress shop :(
First worn: Not yet. Just for fitting.
Total cost: I think the fabric was around $8.00/yd when I bought it. I don't remember what the linen or thread cost.
I think my favorite part of working on this jacket was trying to eek it out of a yard of fabric. I gave in and added an extra eighth of a yard to line up the print how I liked it. In order to facilitate this, I pieced a lot of the jacket. Almost every pattern piece, except one center front piece, have a pieced section. All this lining up and piecing, I think, contributed to the jacket taking so long. Also, general laziness and watching tv etc etc.
I really like this jacket. I know I made it as a separate to add a new piece to the wardrobe, but I have a few yards of the cotton left, so maybe in the future I will add a matching petticoat to the ensemble.